The Gentrification of African Accessories
With rising artists such as Tyla, Ayra Starr, and Tems, African culture is being recognized and pushed to the front of magazine covers in a way we haven’t seen before. African pop stars are blowing up and creating spaces for Africans all across the diaspora to feel included and represented through their music, and with great pop stars comes great fashion!
It's common for many people to feel inspired by their favorite artists' unique styles and to start adapting their wardrobes to fit that brand. Still, there’s a point when appreciating an artist's style becomes appropriation of their culture. An extremely popular example of this is the gentrification of African accessories and cultural items, such as waist beads, shell jewelry, and “Ghana Must Go” bags. I personally have been wearing waist beads since middle school, and it’s something deeply personal to my culture as an African American-Creole woman. These are handmade, natural pieces meant to be worn forever, representing femininity, fertility, and spiritual protection. They are used in traditional African ceremonies and rituals for when young girls transition into womanhood, and hold so much symbolism.
With this in mind, when browsing websites like Fashion Nova, ASOS, and H&M, one may notice that they’re selling waist beads rebranded as “beaded belly chains” and “exotic body beads.” Not only are they profiting off a culturally significant piece of jewelry, but they are charging upwards of twenty dollars for jewelry made of synthetic and dangerous materials. Traditional waist beads are made of natural materials such as bone, wood, shells, clay, and glass, but these “beaded belly chains” are made of synthetic materials like plastic, acrylic, and faux shells, with warnings below stating that they could lead to cancer and reproductive harm. Fertility and protection are two of the largest aspects of what waist beads are meant to represent, and seeing these brands selling products that completely counteract that spiritual aspect is especially hurtful. It shows that cultural appropriation is not only disingenuous but also harmful to those who participate in it.
Waist beads aren't the only African accessory that has been gentrified, as even high fashion brands such as Louis Vuitton are active participants. LV’s PFW SS25 runway was recently under fire for its appropriation of “Ghana Must Go” bags. This caused great controversy because of the horrific origins of Ghana Must Go bags, where, in 1983, the Nigerian government forced around 2 million undocumented migrant workers from Ghana, Cameroon, and Chad to leave the country with little to no warning and preparation time. These woven plastic bags were used to quickly pack all of their belongings, selling whatever they couldn't fit inside before being ordered out. The President at the time, President Shagari, stated, “If they don’t leave, they should be arrested, tried, and sent back to their homes. Illegal immigrants, under normal circumstances, should not be given any notice whatsoever.” Louis Vuitton choosing to profit off of this painful history by selling a version of the GMG bag for $3,000 is the epitome of cultural appropriation. An item from African peoples' everyday lives should not be profited off in such a way, where non-African individuals are able carry the weight of a luxury bag because they think it's stylish, without carrying the weight of the history and pain behind it.
This Black History Month, we should raise awareness about different African cultures and the importance of respecting traditional African accessories. It is more than just jewelry to us, as it is a continuation of African artistry, carrying centuries of tradition and culture. African jewelry is so beautiful and unique, and if you want to appreciate that culture in a respectful way, please go out and support Black-owned businesses and buy from local African shops and vendors. It's better to put your money towards the originators of these art forms rather than supporting unethical business practices that appropriate and profit from Black and African culture. Happy Black History Month from VIM– Black is Beautiful.